But I think it is safe to say that you are now at a point were some manual tuning is a good idea. engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. This increased idle speed is triggered by grounding the orange wire in the 10-pin I/O harness. It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. I chased that gremlin for about three weeks and was convinced I had a bad throttle cable. A question I cannot get a 100% answer on is can you piggy back off the Sniper EFI TPS for an electronic transmission? The car would idle, I could hit the gas rev the car up and it ran great I also noticed two nice black spots on my garage floor from the exhaust. Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. On EFI systems such as Holley's Sniper, all of the EFI sensors (except for the O2 and coolant temperature sender) are mounted snuggly in the throttle body. He has walked me through every question Iv. When the idle speed screw is turned all the way out there should be just enough room between the bore and the blade to catch your fingernail. And yes, monitoring the fuel pressure is the right answer. How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? And so glad you guys are enjoying the Sniper EFI system. So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. Seems like its too slow to grab idle when ac kicks on. If the minus 40 degree setting is lower than the setting to the right, simply move it up so that it looks something like this: The folks who have tried this have found that their idle speed control behaves much more as they expect. Note that Brazilian gasoline has 27% ethyl alcohol. Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. I'd suggest that you assume everything the previous owner did was wrong until you can prove that it was done correctly. Hi Chris. Confirm the placement of all wiring, ensure that the WBO2 sensor is positioned properly, etc. 1. Engine warms up to 195 degrees and stays. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. Thank you for your input. If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. Or is there something else I should If more info is needed just ask. If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. I've been having problems with my sniper efi just shutting off. When you experience this, before you touch anything or shut the engine down, first look at your TPS and your IAC. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. The Sniper will be controlling the timing so it will be based on a multitude of factors. Should the iac% fluctuate? Simply use your handheld controller and go to the Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Speed screen and click on the Idle Speed Curve function. It meets the target idle perfectly in either but if I lightly stab the throttle it tries to stall after slightly revving. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. When the system is up and running the fuel pressure regulator inside the Sniper is making a rattling sound like a shaking a paint can. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. If you see that the ECU is commanding the IAC to 0 but there is air entering the IAC port then it's time to refer to my article on IAC Testing Procedures, Hello,I installed my sniper system on a 65 mustang, with a 302. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? around 45 mph it bogs down, catches itself, bogs, catches, bogs and catches. applies here because it is so important to realize that just because the IAC Does this seem reasonable and how hard will it be to get the idle and off-idle performance correct? To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. Im in Australia, so stuck the sniper on a 355 Holden engine with CD box. Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. Hot start it most of the time wont start unless I give it a little throttle. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. I've increased the IAC rampdown time to 8 seconds to try to combat this, but wondering if it will correct itself over time or if I need to possibly replace this TP sensor. Idle > IAC Kick. I am new to the EFI scene but want to learn. Only show this user . The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. Featured Products Sniper EFI $7.07 - $2,457.95 470 Products View Parts author Staff Writer 1711 Posts An Article About Video tech Sniper EFI Videos Sniper EFI Tech Sniper EFI sniper Installation Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. It could be a couple of things. I' m going to put the 3 rd new pump this coming friday. No air should be able to pass. When running it will only stay in closed loop and learn at idle. Any idea's? Is there away to lean the idle out? The engine has 14: 1 compression ratio, we can not use gasoline. Pricing was reasonable, shipping was prompt and Chris helped me with a wiring question during my install. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. You are looking in the right area but I would probably not change the ROC blanking. Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! Thank you. The Sniper EFI remote IAC (Idle Air Control) and plug is designed to gain installation clearance on some Sniper EFI 2x4 installations. Thank you for this guide on setting IAC. Thank you chris for for getting back to me on this matter.I'm using russell hi pressure gas line to feed the gas up to the sniper and using the stock steel gas line that use to be the feed line for the carb to return the gas to the tank. I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. Key, I believe, in this success is solid connections, resistance-free signal and ground paths, and solid RFI rejection. Thanks Again for your help. However, I did have another fellow who contacted me that claims he went through three units before he could get one that would talk between the ECU and the Monitor. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. Several good bits here. Get a solid feeling for where it is when the engine is warm and the idle speed is correct. The symptoms I had was a low cold start idle and going lean coming to a stop. We'll also be contacting you for future purchases now that I've discovered you! Always had to set idle above 950. So what--you're never going to drive in minus 40 degrees, right? The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. carburetor setup, but it does blow when I can't jump on the highway like I use I watched the butterflies start to open at about 35 on TPS. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. This minimizes installation time and packages really well on a diverse group of engine applications. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. I guess we can't have everything. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. When I finished the install on my C10, I set it as follows: 13.1 at idle, 14.2 at cruise, and 12.9 at WOT. I have never seen issue when CTS is below 120 degrees. That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. Thank you so much for your follow-up. If you datalog the Sniper ECU and see multiple overlapping traces for the same signal, you likely have RF-induced problems. Short drives is fine then it'll Fortunately, these are much easier to solve. Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. Thanks for any help. Any ideas here? There is no real mystery here. As inconvenient as it might seem, I'd recommend keeping a timing light handy and checking your timing during the high idle condition and then again after restarting. Ensure there isn't a vacuum leak causing the IAC Position to drop to 0%. Now I have most of the bugs worked out it runs fine on the highway and around town it's just the idle. Also ensure the TPS Position returns to zero at idle, & the IAC Hold Position isn't setup too high. If the ECU has not spent some significant time learning yet, I'd recommend going back through the setup wizard and getting everything back to default. That is not the way to go. So if you are trying to achieve a stoichiometric mixture in ethanol (which is achieved at an AFR of 9.0:1) then you should continue to target 14.7:1 since that is what will be displayed. Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. So you installed your Holley Sniper. That is not a huge problem but it just means the IAC has no ability to lower the idle beyond what it is running at that point. It won't take much! Car was running great initially. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. But they are 100% committed to your satisfaction. All times are GMT-6. You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. Intermittent stalling usually points to radio frequency or electro-magnetic intereference (RFI/EMI). But if the idle is a little bit higher then it doesn't have to jump quite as much in response to the load, and tends to react a little bit more smoothly. If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. Put a strong piece of tape over the IAC breather hole--duct tape or something that couldn't possibly be sucked into the throttle body. Closed Loop Compensation rises to 100%, Do I just keep pushing it the same way to The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. One of the most common symptoms of a Holley Sniper EFI problem is an air/fuel mixture that's too rich or too lean. But, if the idle is so high that it is making you crazy then you might try dropping that number just a bit. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure Gauge, article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions. We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. Good luck! Once you know that then you can work on those problems. Good luck! I think in some of the Wizards with the handheld it doesn't use 57.5 as the default. I have verified that there are no vacuum leaks, not to mention the car runs to good to have a vacuum leak bad enough to make this noise. (It should be at or near 60 PSI at idle. 3 different fuel pumps. The only other thing I changed was accel enrich but whatever way I go doesn't seem to change anything unless I change it drastically. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. Duration @.050 is 240 intake 246 exhaust with .574/.578 lift. Ensure that the secondary linkage is completely closed (both visually and manually.). My guess is a faulty IAC since it is intermittent and I have not done any setup changes. Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. I'd say make sure you buy from someone who can give you good after-purchase help (hint!) I've read that a spacer with 4 individual holes will solve this, but after I installed the progressive linkage the noise went away!! See these. Super helpful and knowledgeable. Sniper setting is Stock camshaft. I have an entirely separate article on Solving RF Intereference Issues. Throttle Tip-In puts you in a part of the fuel map where you stay for only milliseconds at a time. The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. I have an entire article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions and while Sniper is still a sound choice for some applications, Terminator X (with transmission control) is hands-down the way to go for those who need that. Definitely not 90. Thank you. Has a good size camshaft cant find any vacuum leaks. It's not necessary to drive it that way. So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. Until the engine starts, the throttle only has one purpose: To detect you pressing it to 60%, at which point it shuts off the fuel injectors. P.S. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. School's out for spring break this week though so I'm covering for employees on vacation. Idle was back to normal but iac was at 0. The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. Holley EFI 543-105 Idle Air Control Motor If you do find you have RFI issues then I've written an article on solving RFI problems. I'm so glad you found this helpful--that makes my day!Don't get too concerned about the specific learn percentage. If you've been running a filter then you have to wonder if you have a legitimate Walbro pump.If you install a new pump and the noise is still coming from the Sniper EFI System then only the dealer who sold you your system can help you. By the way your site and your accessory products are nice. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. Holley documentation and videos didn't work and the $300 I paid for "expert" tuning didn't work either. Others might require 60 RPM. I had a customer who struggled to understand that. Bryan McTaggart 02/28/2023 news Okay, try my method. The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. Holley Sniper high RPM - IAC problem? It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. The problem was RF interferance . Should i adjust idle screw with the fans already on? Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. One thing you need to sync the timing and set the inductive delay. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". Sniper is still learning so it will continue to improve.Second, you may have heard the phrase, "correlation is not causation." I went on the good ole interweb and found your website which was VERY helpful! Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. % = 49 Add To Cart. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. Seems to behave more better now. I pulled over and turned the car off and then back on. The Street/Strip and race cam setups tend to be too rich initially. At this time, TPS is 0%, IAC is 50 to 60%. The IAC going to 30 is normal. One of them might be faulty. If you go the other way then you might find that the IAC zero's out when the fans are off. Commanding the engine to automatically increase speed when switching into drive is a little scary to me though. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. In your case, however, I think you're close to getting it running. The last pic is with the car in Drive. If the connection is loose it will cause the system to shut fuel off because the signal telling the EFI the motor is turning stops (to prevent excess fuel from being dumped in the motor). If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. Holley Sniper IAC Surging???? A problem since day 1 - YouTube After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. This value is itself enough to raise the idle a bit. IAC Testing Procedure for EFI Systems After pumping the pedal a few times at different times it dropped to zero and started to work. It's called tuning. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. How to replace the IAC in the Holley Super Sniper. - YouTube The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . First thing I would check The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. The tps will not auto reset to zero. would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. I've been messing around for a bit trying to eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. and go to restart warm, it catches starts for a flick of a second, drops to a stall, or sometimes will catch its self and start. This may require shortening or lengthening a rod. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds (Don't drive and watch--get a helper!) However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. PDF Sensor Diagnostics and Statuses - Holley When I drive with warm engine the IAC is at 30% when pushing gas, but shouldn't it be at 0%? They also worked with me on a sale I missed and price matched those parts. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. That is what I really respect about Holley. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. During cruising at 30 miles and release the gas pedal the engine revs at aproximaly 1500 RPM and it won't drop. Im not sure what its doing, have messed with after start fuel, fuel at cranking. It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. The Fuel Base map is perfect, the car works well, runs well, running through the streets, the car is great. That is not something I'd ignore. We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. Thanks in advance for any advice. Yes, the sound coming out of your Sniper throttle body is a pulsation from the fuel pump that is pulsing the mechanical fuel pressure regulator. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. That 60% (which is configurable) is known as the Clear Flood TPS. check out the. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. This is more of a bit of a reality check. Doesn't want to start, runs like crap. Fuel Flow lb / h = 12.1 Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. For the first couple of drives it was running well, Sniper EFI was working exactly as advertised. With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. I never had a problem with this. I believe that for the HyperSpark the Reference Angle should be 57.5. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. My Sniper is 99% great! Fortunately, Holley has another product that can solve that: Hydramat.. Hydramat is not inexpensive but you won't believe what it can do. Strangely, what I've seen is that it idles too lean as the injectors are effectively shut off.Thanks again for the follow-up and glad to hear that everything is working well now. I recently bought the car with the EFI system on it. Chris---I am contemplating replacing my Holley 750 on my new low vacuum 600 HP 496 with the Holley Sniper FI system. Hello, Chris, thanks for the help.I have not installed the software yet, and I'm having trouble with two cars. Start with the most gradual throttle input you need to launch well, then slightly increase until you feel some stumble. Not good.There isn't set solution here that works for all engines. I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. At low levels RF interference will often reset the ECU so quickly that the engine will not stall. Chris's Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions*: *Note: If you are using your Sniper to control ignition timing then I recommend that before you start this process you disable idle spark control If you are trying to do this while the ECU is simultaneously trying to bring your idle under control by adjusting the advance it is going to be counter-productive. With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. I have quadruple checked my wiring and am certain it's correct. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is jumping around from 35 to 60. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. No problems with either cold or hot starts. 34K views 1 year ago Holley Sniper How to Set The IAC Idle air Control in 5 minutes or less. To finish, I rather tightly twisted the TPS signal and ground wires all the way from the controller to the Sniper TPS and very carefully routed them away from sources of RFI. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. Jun 12, 2021. SNIPER EFI TO HOLLEY DUAL SYNC HARNESS Part# 558-493 $34.44 Qty: Add To Cart Idle Air Control Motor Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems Part# 543-105 $71.72 Qty: Add To Cart It only comes back to normal if I turn the engine off and on again. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. Please check your process again and see if you can see very specifically what is not working correctly. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? That is the only way to fly. A couple of those and you should feel it getting better. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article.
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